Sometimes a brake caliper isn't worth saving. The pistons are seized, the seals are gone, the body is corroded, and you've already spent more on rebuild kits than a new caliper would cost. When you reach that point, replacement is the smart call. Here's how to fit a new All Balls caliper to your ATV or UTV.
When to Replace Instead of Rebuild
- Pistons are seized or pitted beyond honing
- Caliper body is cracked or heavily corroded
- Threads are stripped on bleed nipples or banjo bolts
- You've already rebuilt it once and it's leaking again
- The cost of a kit plus your time exceeds a new unit
What You'll Need
- All Balls Racing replacement caliper (model-specific)
- Fresh brake fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4, check your manual)
- New brake pads (if yours are worn)
- New banjo washers
- Brake fluid catch container and rags
- Bleed kit or a mate to help
Step-by-Step: Caliper Replacement
- Remove the wheel for access.
- Crack the banjo bolt loose before unbolting the caliper. Catch the fluid in a rag.
- Unbolt the caliper from the mount.
- Disconnect the brake line fully and let it drain into your container.
- Transfer the brake pads to the new caliper, or fit fresh ones.
- Mount the new caliper and torque to spec.
- Reconnect the brake line with new copper banjo washers.
- Bleed the system properly. No air, no spongy lever.
- Test pressure before going for a ride.
Pro Tips From the Workshop
- Always use new banjo washers. Old ones won't seal twice.
- Apply a smear of high-temp grease on slide pins (not the brake side).
- Bed in new pads gently for the first 50km. Hard stops too early can glaze them.
- Check your brake disc while you're in there. A worn disc kills new pads quickly.
Shop the Right Caliper
ATVstore stocks All Balls Racing replacement calipers for most major ATV and UTV brands. Browse the brakes category or check our brake pads and brake discs while you're at it.